The town
Rubavu has three sandy beaches lined with old mansions and hotels that give it a distinctly faded, romantic feel — and a newer generation of upscale lakeside hotels that has put it back on the itinerary. The public beach is genuinely public and busy at weekends; several hotels hold private stretches. It is the most straightforwardly relaxing place in Rwanda.
The border
Rubavu's twin city across the frontier is Goma in the Democratic Republic of Congo, sitting under the active Nyiragongo volcano. The two cities are physically continuous and the crossing is a short walk from the beach. Rubavu itself is on the Rwandan side of the volcanic risk line. Border conditions change; check current advice before planning anything on the Congolese side.
What to do
The Kivu Coffee Tour is the anchor activity — plantation, washing station and cupping on the lake shore. Dancing Pots at nearby Kanama and the traditional healer visit are both half days. Otherwise: swim, take a boat out, and watch the sunset, which is the best on the lake.
History and industry
Rubavu served as the seat of the interim government during the 1994 genocide, and the town carries that history quietly. It is also home to Rwanda's brewery, which is where the country's beer comes from — an incidental but genuinely popular tour.
Getting there
About an hour and a half west of Musanze, three and a half from Kigali. From here the lake road runs south to Karongi — see Lake Kivu.